My photography equipment includes:
My primary camera is a Nikon D610. I also have a D100 that I’ve had since new, that I now use for IR photography. Most current digital cameras have a filter over the sensor that filters out the IR light, so they do not work well with an IR filter like the Cokin P007. The early digital cameras do not have this filter, so they are much better at this. The disadvantage compared to a converted camera is that the older cameras do not feature live view, so you have to set up shots the old fashioned way, and
I use a GoPro Hero 4 Black, largely for time lapses, and a second camera on other work, usually as video or in time lapse mode.
The latest addition to my stable is a Panasonic LUMIX LX10, which is going to be used for BTS and the places that I don’t usually carry a DSLR.
Nikkor 50mm f1.8D. This one is a favorite because of the fast f1.8 maximum aperture. A 35mm might be better on a DX sensor, but the 50mm is a very versatile length on either DX or FX/film.
60mm f2.8D Micro-Nikkor, Probably on my camera more than any other lens, the 60mm is a little short for heavy 1:1 macro work, but is a great normal(ish) lens, and works great for a lot of the not quite 1:1 pictures that are closer than a regular lens can do. I also love the dampening of the manual focus on this lens, although it does ad a little to the complexity. There is a locking ring on the lens that engages and disengages the manual focus collar. This allows the focus collar to be nicely damped for smooth manual focusing without slowing auto focus.
PC-E NIKKOR 24mm F3.5D ED. Replacing an old 28mm PC lens that I had, this is a great landscape and architecture lens. Shift allows you to correct the converging line effect that occurs when you tilt a lens back. The tilt effect is most associated with minimizing depth of field, but can be used to increase the perceived depth of field as well. Tilting the ens away from the plane you are photographing, i.e. tilting up when photographing the ground for a landscape, causes the depth of field to become smaller, tilting it down effectively spreads the focal plane along the ground, increasing the perceived DoF.
Nikkor 35-105 3.5-4.5 zoom. This is an older lens I bought off a friend. This one is probably due for an update.
Vivitar Series One catadioptric. Catadioptric (Mirror) lenses are not as popular now as they used to be. They have a couple serious disadvantages, and a couple advantages. The primary disadvantage is that they are fixed aperture, and usually pretty slow. The benefits are smaller size and lighter weight than standard lenses of the same focal length, and usually lower cost.
Apple MacBook Pro 15 Inch. This is my first (modern) Mac, and I like it, but am a firm believer in using what works for you. Most of the most important software is available for PC and Mac, and some for Linux and other operating systems. Use what you are comfortable with and is effective. The top selling point for me was the great combination of small and lightweight form factor with the horsepower to run the programs I needed.
Phase One Capture One Pro is my main RAW editor.
Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom CC. Pretty much the standard for photo editing, not much more to say about this.
I use a Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 4-Section Carbon Fiber Tripod and 496RC2 Ball Head. I found the old version of the carbon tripod for not much more than the current aluminum version. You gain about 5 inches of maximum height in the new version, which would be nice, but the height of this one is fine for a lightweight tripod I can schlep around state parks and fit in my carryon.
AmazonBasics remote. I use this like a cable release, which doesn’t require a cable. The AmazonBasics one works just fine compared to the Nikon one, I think it feels better, and less than half the price. That can come in handy, because you can lose these.